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The adobe photoshop lightroom cc book for digital photographers (voices that matter) pdf free

Book Works. Best-Sellers Archives – RockyNook. Real Estate Photography. Video Photography. Amazing Photography. Photography Books. Photography Business. Photography Settings. Photography Basics.

Photoshop Elements. Book Illustrations. Buy Photoshop. Photoshop Elements Best Photoshop Actions. Raw Photo. Used Cameras. Electronic Books. Jessica Maldonado. Learning Photography. Photography Techniques. Make Photo. Photo Look. Photography Student. Flower Photography. Flower Pictures. Instagram Trends. New Instagram. On the far right, click-and-hold on None and, from the pop-up menu that appears, choose Save Current Settings as New Preset as shown here. You might want to save a second preset for importing images that are already on your hard drive, too.

Note: You can return to the full-size Import window anytime by clicking the Show More Options button the downfacing arrow in the bottom-left corner. The images here are 1 coming from your card reader, 2 then they are being copied, and 3 these copies are being stored in a folder on your hard drive. In the middle section, you can add any keywords that would be specific to these images which is why I leave this field blank when I save my Import presets.

Then, it shows your preferences for file handing and backing up a second copy of your images. On the right, you can name the subfolder these images are going to be saved into. So, how does this save you time? Well, now you only have to type in a few keywords, give your subfolder a name, and click the Import button. You can see a larger view of the first frame by just selecting the video, then pressing the Spacebar on your computer.

Step Four: If you want to organize all your video clips into one central location, create a Smart Collection to do it for you. When the dialog appears, from the first pop-up menu on the left choose File Type, from the second menu choose Is, and from the third choose Video.

Step One: The first step is to connect your camera to your computer using that little USB cable that came with your camera. So, go look there for it. Go ahead and connect your camera now. In the studio, and on location, I use the tethered setup you see here which I learned about from world-famous photographer Joe McNally. This brings up the dialog you see here, in the Import Window where you enter pretty much the same info as you would you type in the name of your shoot at the top in the Session Name field, and you choose whether you want the images to have a custom name or not.

You also choose where on your hard drive you want these images saved to, and if you want any metadata or keywords added—just like usual. Try it out by turning on the Segment Photos By Shot checkbox. When you do this, a naming dialog appears shown here , where you can type in a descriptive name for the first shoot of your session.

To the right of that, you have the option of applying a Develop module preset see Chapter 4 for more on those, but for now just leave it set at None. When you take a shot now, in just a few moments, the image will appear in Lightroom. Note: Canon and Nikon react to tethering differently. So, double-click on any of the images to jump up to Loupe view as shown here , where you get a much bigger view as your images appear in Lightroom. Now these images will appear in their own separate folders, but all within my main Studio Session folder.

Then lastly, I press the letter L twice to enter Lights Out mode, so all I see is the full-screen-sized image centered on a black background, with no distractions as shown here. A popular strategy is to include the date of the shoot as part of the new name. Luckily, you can create your own custom file naming template just the way you want it.

In that panel, turn on the Rename Files checkbox, then click on the Template pop-up menu and chose Edit as shown here to bring up the Filename Template Editor shown below in Step Two. Step Two: At the top of the dialog, there is a pop-up menu where you can choose any of the built-in naming presets as a starting place.

To remove either token, click on it, then press the Delete PC: Backspace key on your keyboard. To keep your filenames from getting too long, I recommend using just the last two digits of the year. At this point, my new filename is Step Four: After the two-digit year, we add the twodigit month the photo was taken by going to the same pop-up menu, but this time choosing Date MM , as shown here. Both of these dates are drawn automatically from the metadata embedded into your photo by your digital camera at the moment the shot was taken.

By the way, if you had chosen Date Month , it would display the entire month name, so your filename would have looked like this: 10February, rather than what we want, which is To add one, just click your cursor right after the Date MM token, then press the Shift key and the Hyphen key to add an underscore seen here. This differs because some people choose to have the original camera-assigned filename appear there instead personally, I like to have a name in there that makes sense to me without having to open the photo.

To do that, go to the Numbering section and choose your numbering sequence from the third pop-up menu down. Here I chose the Sequence token, which adds three-digit auto-numbering to the end of your filename you can see the example above the naming field. A dialog will appear where you can name your preset. Step One: The preferences for importing photos are found in a couple different places. First, to get to the Preferences dialog, go under the Lightroom menu on a Mac or the Edit menu on a PC, and choose Preferences as shown here.

Step Two: When the Preferences dialog appears, first click on the General tab up top shown highlighted here. Under Import Options in the middle, the first preference lets you tell Lightroom how to react when you connect a memory card from your camera to your computer. By default, it opens the Import window.

In the Catalog Settings dialog, click on the Metadata tab. Here you can determine whether you want to take the metadata you add to your RAW photos copyright, keywords, etc. Instead, if you want to send a file to a friend or client and you want the metadata written to an XMP sidecar file, first go to the Library module and click on an image to select it, then press Command-S PC: Ctrl-S , which is the shortcut for Save Metadata to File which is found under the Metadata menu.

DNG was created by Adobe because today each camera manufacturer has its own proprietary RAW file format, and Adobe is concerned that, one day, one or more manufacturers might abandon an older format for something new. While ensuring that your negatives could be opened in the future was the main goal, DNG brings other advantages, as well. So, before you give somebody your DNG file, just remember to use that shortcut so it writes the metadata to the file first. Once the Import window appears, go to the Apply During Import panel, and from the Metadata pop-up menu, choose New as shown here.

First, click the Check None button at the bottom of the dialog, as shown here so no blank fields will appear when you view this metadata in Lightroom—only fields with data will be displayed.

Next, go to the IPTC Creator section and enter your contact info after all, if someone goes by your website and downloads some of your images, you might want them to be able to contact you to arrange to license your photo. From the Preset pop-up menu at the top, choose the preset you want to delete. Once all the metadata appears in the dialog, go back to that Preset pop-up menu, and now choose Delete Preset [Name of Preset].

Click Delete, and it is gone forever. When your imported photos appear in Lightroom, they always appear in the center of the Library module, which is where we do all our sorting, searching, keywording, etc.

The Develop module is where you go to do your photo editing like changing the exposure, white balance, tweaking colors, etc. Step Two: There are five areas in the Lightroom interface overall: that taskbar on the top, the left and right side Panels areas, and a Filmstrip across the bottom your photos always appear in the center Preview area. You can hide any panel which makes the Preview area, where your photos are displayed, larger by clicking on the little gray triangle in the center edge of the panel.

Click it again; it comes back. Sounds great, right? The problem is one pops out anytime you move your cursor to the far right, left, top, or bottom of your screen. You can hide both side Panels areas by pressing the Tab key, but the one shortcut I probably use the most is Shift-Tab, because it hides everything—all the panels—and leaves just your photos visible as shown here.

Everything else all adjustments is found on the right side. Okay, on the next page: tips on viewing. You can change the size of these thumbnails using the Thumbnails slider that appears in the toolbar the dark gray horizontal bar that appears directly below the center Preview area.

Drag it to the right, and they get bigger; drag to the left, and they get smaller the slider is circled here. This larger size is called Loupe view as if you were looking at the photo through a loupe , and by default it zooms in so you can see your entire photo in the Preview area. If you click it once on your photo, it jumps to a view of the area where you clicked.

To zoom back out, just click it again. To return to the thumbnail view called Grid view , just press the letter G on your keyboard. This is one of the most important keyboard shortcuts to memorize so far, the ones you really need to know are: Shift-Tab to hide all the panels, and now G to return to Grid view. Step Four: The default cell view is called Expanded and gives you the most info The Compact view shrinks the size of the cell and amount of info, but numbers each cell The area that surrounds your thumbnail is called a cell, and each cell displays information about the photo from the filename, to the file format, dimensions, etc.

Also, you can hide or show the dark gray toolbar below the center Preview area by pressing T. If you press-and-hold T, it only hides it for as long as you have the T key held down.

In this mode, a thin white border also appears around your thumbnails, so they really stand out. Perhaps the coolest thing about this dimmed mode is the fact that the Panels areas, taskbar, and Filmstrip all still work—you can still make adjustments, change photos, etc.

To get your image as big onscreen as possible, right before you enter Lights Out mode, press Shift-Tab to hide all the panels on the sides, top, and bottom—that way you get the big image view you see here.

To return to regular view, use the same shortcut. The image on top is the gray layout you just learned, and on bottom, I pressed L twice to enter Lights Out mode. He creates a separate Lightroom catalog go under the File menu and choose New Catalog for every single wedding.

At each wedding, he shoots more than a thousand shots, and often he has one to two other photographers shooting with him. Well, if you delete some of these files, then your numbering will be out of sequence there will be numbers missing.

In Windows Vista and Windows 7 bit, by default, only the bit version of Lightroom is installed. The folders will vary slightly, depending on the Date Format you choose, but you will have a folder for each day you shot. You may need to upgrade your Elements catalog for Lightroom, so just click Upgrade if prompted to. Lightroom will close and then reopen with your Elements catalog imported. The cool thing is that this works in the Import window, too.

This brings up the Import window with this folder already chosen as the destination for your imported photos. So, if you choose the Into One Folder option, I recommend that you turn on the Into Subfolder checkbox and then name the folder. That way, it imports them into their own separate folder inside your Pictures or My Lightroom Photos folder. Otherwise, things will get very messy, very quickly.

If you pop in a new card, click on the From button at the top left of the window, and choose it from the pop-up menu that appears. That may not seem that bad with 14 photos, but what about or photos?

So, armed with that info, you can make a decision that fits your workflow. My year-old son would still be giggling. When you import photos, you have to choose a folder in which to store them on your hard drive.

I use the same type of thinking in Lightroom. Of course, you can move photos from folder to folder as seen here , add photos, or delete photos, and so on, right? You can see all those same folders, and move and delete real files just like you do on your computer. If the triangle is solid gray, it means there are subfolders inside that folder, and you can just click on that triangle to see them. This brings up a standard Open dialog, so you can show Lightroom where you moved the folder. When you click on the moved folder, it re-links all the photos inside for you.

In fact, it ignores them unless I go to the Folders panel, Right-click on my Tuscany finals folder, and choose Synchronize Folder. There is a checkbox to have Lightroom bring up the standard Import window before you import the photos so you can add your copyright, and metadata and stuff like that if you like , or you just bring them in by clicking Synchronize and adding that stuff once the images are in Lightroom if you even want to. TIP: Other Folder Options When you Right-click on a folder, and the pop-up menu appears, you can choose to do other things like rename your folder, create subfolders, etc.

Just so you know. Lightroom gives you three ways to rate or rank your photos, the most popular being the 1-tostar rating system. To mark a photo with a star rating, just click on it and type the number on your keyboard. To change a star rating, type in a new number. To remove it altogether, press 0 zero.

You can also use that filter to see just your 4-star, 3-star, etc. Besides stars, you can also use color labels, so you could mark the worst photos with a Red label, slightly better ones with Yellow, and so on. Or, you could use these in conjunction with the stars to mark your best 5-star photo with a Green label as shown here at the bottom. Think about it—your 5-star photos would be your very best shots, right?

So your 4-star ones are good, but not good enough. Your 3-star ones are just so-so nobody will ever see these. So what are you going to do with your 2- and 3-star photos? What about your 4-star photos? The 5-stars you keep, the 1-stars you delete, the rest you pretty much do nothing with, right? So, all we really care about are the best shots and the worst shots, right?

The rest we ignore. You mark the best shots as Picks and the really bad ones the ones to be deleted as Rejects. To mark a photo as a Pick, just press the letter P.

To mark a photo as a Reject, press the letter X. Go under the Photo menu and choose Delete Rejected Photos.

I always choose Delete from Disk, because if they were bad enough for me to mark them as Rejects, why would I want to keep them? What could I possibly use them for? So, if you feel the same way, click the Delete from Disk button and it returns you to the Grid view, and the rest of your photos. Click on the white Picks flag shown circled here , and now just your Picks are visible.

Collections are the key organizational tool we use, not just here in the sorting phase, but throughout the Lightroom workflow. A pop-up menu will appear, and from this menu, choose Create Collection as shown here. In the Collection Options section, you want your collection to include the photos you selected your Picks in the previous step, and because you made a selection first, this checkbox is already turned on for you.

But here are some questions: Are you going to print all 58 of these keepers? Are all 58 going in your portfolio, or are you going to email 58 shots of this one bridal shoot to the bride? Probably not, right? So, within our collection of keepers, there are some shots that really stand out—the best of the best, the ones you actually will want to email to the client, or print, or add to your portfolio.

You already know the first method: double-click on a photo to jump to Loupe view, move through the photos using the Arrow keys on your keyboard, and when you see one that you know is one of the best of the bunch, you press the letter P to flag it as a Pick when you created this collection, Lightroom removed the old Picks flags for you.

You enter this view by first selecting the similar photos, as seen here click on one, then press-and-hold the Command [PC: Ctrl] key and click on the others. This puts your selected photos all onscreen, side by side, so you can easily compare them as shown here. Also, anytime I enter this Survey view, I immediately press Shift-Tab to hide all the panels, which makes the photos as large as possible on my screen.

Here, I removed one photo and the others automatically readjusted to fill in the free space. As you continue to eliminate images, the remaining images get larger and larger as they expand to take up the free space. Now, just press the letter P to flag those as Picks.

Note: Remember, when you first made your collection from flagged Picks, Lightroom automatically removed the Picks flags. At the top of the center Preview area, in the Library Filter bar, click on Attribute, and when the Attribute bar pops down, click on the white Picks flag to display just the Picks from your Picks collection as seen here. This brings up the Create Collection dialog. Collections appear listed in alphabetical order, so if you start with the same names, both collections will wind up together, which makes things easier for you in the next step besides, you can always change the name later if you like.

Step Just to recap, now you have two collections: one with your keepers from the shoot the Picks , and a Selects collection with only the very best images from the shoot. Now press the letter C to enter Compare view, where the two photos will appear side by side as shown here , then press Shift-Tab to hide the panels and make the photos as large as possible.

Also, you can enter Lights Out mode now, if you like press the letter L twice. This makes the Candidate image become the Select image it moves to the left side , and the battle starts again. If it is better, click the Make Select button and continue the process.

So, which of the three views do you use when? Instead, I mark this one photo on the left as the winner by pressing the number 6 on my keyboard. This assigns a Red label to this photo as shown here. This is just one place where collection sets come in handy, because you could put all those shoots under one collection set: New York. This brings up the Create Collection Set dialog where you can name your set. Step Two: This empty collection set now appears in the Collections panel.

What this does is brings up the Create Collection dialog with the Patterson Wedding collection set already chosen in the Set pop-up menu as the set to save this collection into. With something like a wedding, where you might wind up creating a lot of separate collections for different parts of the wedding, you can see how keeping everything organized under one header like this really makes sense.

You can also download most of the same images used in the book to follow right along with. Show and hide more. Table of contents Product information. Show details Hide details. Choose items to buy together. In stock. Get it Aug 19 – In Stock.

Get it as soon as Tuesday, Aug Customers who viewed this item also viewed. Page 1 of 1 Start over Page 1 of 1. Scott Kelby. Scott Kelby’s Lightroom 7-Point System.

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See all customer images. Top reviews Most recent Top reviews. Top reviews from the United States. There was a problem filtering reviews right now. Please try again later. Verified Purchase. I’m only 37 pages into this book and though I admit the book looks pretty and simple to follow, I cannot express how truly terrible, disorganized and confusing the book has already been. Chapter 1 urges the reader to organize one’s photos into a file system and place them on a backup drive, NOT the hard drive.

Here’s how: Step One: Press the letter L on your keyboard to enter Lights Dim mode, in which every- thing but your photo s in the center Preview area is dimmed kind of like you turned down a lighting dimmer.

In this mode, a thin white border also appears around your thumbnails, so they really stand out. Perhaps the coolest thing about this dimmed mode is the fact that the Panels areas, taskbar, and Film- strip all still work— you can still make adjustments, change photos, etc. Step Two: The next viewing mode is Lights Out you get Lights Out by pressing L a second time , and this one really makes your photos the star of the show because everything else is totally blacked out, so there’s nothing and I mean nothing but your photos onscreen to return to regular Lights On mode, just press L again.

To get your image as big onscreen as possible, right before you enter Lights Out mode, press Shift-Tab to hide all the panels on the sides, top, and bottom— that way you get the big image view you see here. With- out the Shift-Tab, you’d have the smaller size image you see in Step One, with lots and lots of empty black space around it. The first time you press F, it makes the Lightroom window fill your screen and hides the window’s title bar directly above the taskbar in Lightroom’s interface.

The second F actually hides the menu bar at the very top of your screen, so if you combine this with ShiftTab to hide your panels, taskbar, and Filmstrip, and T to hide the toolbar, you’ll see just your photos on a solid top-to-bottom gray background. I know you might be thinking, “I don’t know if I find those two thin bars at the top really that distracting. To return to regular view, use the same shortcut.

The image on top is the gray layout you just learned, and on bottom, I pressed L twice to enter Lights Out mode. T Lightroonn Won’t Let You Import Duplicates If you go to import some photos, and some or all of them are already found in your Lightroom catalog in other words, these are duplicates , and the Don’t Import Suspected Duplicates checkbox is turned on, any images already in Light- room will be grayed out in the Import window.

If all the images are duplicate, the Import button will also be grayed out, so you can’t import them. T Using Separate Catalogs to Make Lightroom Faster Although I keep one single catalog for all the photos on my laptop, and just three catalogs for my entire collection in the studio, I have a friend who’s a full- time wedding photographer who uses a different Lightroom catalog strategy that freaked me out when I first heard it.

He cre- ates a separate Lightroom catalog go under the File menu and choose New Catalog for every single wedding. At each wedding, he shoots more than a thousand shots, and often he has one to two other photographers shooting with him. His way, Lightroom really screams, because each catalog has only a thou- sand or so photos where for many folks, it’s not unusual to have 30, or 40, images, which tends to slow Lightroom down a bit.

Hey, if you’re a high-volume shooter, it’s worth considering. T Why You Might Want to Wait to Rename Your Files As you saw in this chapter, you can rename your files as you import them into Lightroom and I definitely think you should give your files descriptive names , but you might want to wait until after you’ve sorted your photos and deleted any out-of-focus shots, or shots where the flash didn’t fire, etc.

Well, if you delete some of these files, then your numbering will be out of sequence there will be numbers missing. This doesn’t bother me at all, but I’ve learned that it drives some people crazy you know who you are , so it’s definitely something to consider. However, I think it’s faster and more convenient to go down to the Filmstrip, and on the left side, where you see the current collection’s name, click-and-hold, and from the pop-up menu that appears, choose Previous Import.

Applimionflnlel Si«. That’s it. In Windows Vista and Windows 7 bit, by default, only the bit ver- sion of Lightroom is installed. T Organize Multiple Shoots by Date If you’re like me, you probably wind up having multiple shoots on the same memory card for example, I often shoot one day and then shoot a few days later with the same memory card in my camera. If that’s the case, then there’s an advantage to using the Organize By Date feature in the Import window’s Destination panel, and that is it shows each of the shoots on your memory card by their date.

The folders will vary slightly, depending on the Date Format you choose, but you will have a folder for each day you shot. Only the shoots with a checkmark beside them will be import- ed into Lightroom, so ifyou only want to import shots from a particular date, you can turn off the checkbox beside the dates you don’t want imported. T Multiple Cards fronn One Shoot Ifyou shot two or three memory cards of the same subject, you’ll want to choose Custom Name – Sequence from the File Renaming panel’s Template pop-up menu, which adds a Start Number field, where you can type in which number you want to start with as you import each card rather than always starting with the number 1, like the Custom Name template.

For example, ifyou imported photos from your first card, you’d want the second card to start number- ing with , so these shots of the same subject stay sequential. Once that card is imported let’s say you had shots on that card , then you’d want the start number for the third card’s photos to be By the way, I don’t do the math, I just look at the file number of the last photo I imported, and then add one to it in the Start Number field. Just go under Lightroom’s File menu, choose Upgrade Photoshop Elements Catalog, and then choose your Elements catalog from the dialog’s pop-up menu.

You may need to upgrade your Elements catalog for Light- room, so just click Upgrade if prompted to. Lightroom will close and then reopen with your Elements catalog imported. T Hard Drive Space an Issue? You can’t just back up your photos to a different folder on the same com- puter or the external hard drive you are storing your photos on , because if your computer’s hard drive or your storage hard drive crashes, then you lose both your working copies and the backup copies, too.

That’s why you’ve got to make sure the backups go to a com- pletely separate external hard drive. T Using Two External Hard Drives If you’re already storing your original photos on an external hard drive, it means you now have two external hard drives — one for your working photos, and one for your backups.

A lot of photographers buy two small, stackable external hard drives small hard drives that can stack one on top of the other , and then connect one with a FireWire cable called an IEEE on a PC , and the other with a USB 2 cable hey, I never said this was going to be cheap, but think of it this way: if, one day, you lost all your photos, you’d pay anything to get them back, right?

Instead, just pay a fraction now for a backup hard drive — believe me, you’ll sleep better at night. The cool thing is that this works in the Import window, too. This brings up the Import window with this folder already chosen as the destination for your imported photos.

If you don’t turn on the Into Subfolder checkbox and you choose Into One Folder from the Orga- nize pop-up menu, Lightroom tosses the loose photos into your Pictures or My Lightroom Photos folder whichever folder you chose in the To section at the top right of the Import window , and they’re not organized within their own separate folder.

So, if you choose the Into One Folder option, I recommend that you turn on the Into Subfolder checkbox and then name the folder.

That way, it imports them into their own separate folder inside your Pictures or My Lightroom Photos folder. Otherwise, things will get very messy, very quickly. Now, it renames these second copies. T Choosing Keywords Here’s how I choose my keywords: I ask myself, “If months from now, I was trying to find these same photos, what words would I most likely type in the Find field?

It works better than you’d think. If you pop in a new card, click on the From button at the top left of the window, and choose it from the pop-up menu that appears. That may not seem that bad with 14 photos, but what about or photos? So, armed with that info, you can make a decision that fits your workflow. If you’re the type of photographer that likes to zoom in tight on each and every photo to check focus and detail, then it might be worth it for you to wait for the 1 :1 previews to render before working on your images.

If you look at them mostly in full-screen view but don’t zoom in really tight that often , then Standard might work, and if you want thumbnails that more closely represent what your photo will look like when it is rendered at high quality, choose Minimal instead. T Hiding Folders You Don’t Need If you’re importing photos that are already on your computer, that long list of folders in the Source panel can get really long and distracting, but now you can hide all those extra folders you don’t need to see.

Once you find the folder you’re importing from, just double-click on it, and everything else tucks away leaving just that folder visible. Try this once and you’ll use it all the time. Over on the far-right side, to the right of Kind, click on the Videos button its icon is a filmstrip and it’s the third icon from the left and now it displays nothing but all the video clips you have in Lightroom pretty handy if you want to make a regular collection ofjust your video clips.

But if you’d prefer to control which image appears onscreen, and for how long remember, if you see one onscreen you like, it Nrw Calalpg Under the chapter name, I would put a subhead that explains what the chapter is actually about, because sometimes from the name it wasn’t quite as obvious.

For example, in another book, I had a chapter called “Super Size Me” from the movie of the same name , about how to resize your images. But for the previous edition of this book, I dispensed with those titles and just gave each chapter a regular boring ol’ name, and now that I’m writing the Lightroom 3 version, I’m kinda wishing I hadn’t done away with it even though I guess this way does make it easier.

See, I was thinking that people who buy books on Lightroom are photographers, and that means they’re creative people, which to me means that if I named the chapters after things that in themselves are creative like songs, TV shows, and movies. Well, as luck would have it, I just checked on the iTunes Store and there actually is a song named “Library” by a band called Final Fantasy from their album Has a Good Home.

Anyway, I listened to the song and I have to say, it was mind numbingly bad — bad on a level I haven’t heard in years, yet the album has 12 five-star reviews, so either these people are criminally insane, or they were basing their review on their general love of one of Final Fantasy’s other songs, titled “He Poos Clouds. My year-old son would still be giggling. When you import photos, you have to choose a folder in which to store them on your hard drive.

This is the only time I really do anything with folders because I think of them as where my negatives are stored, and like with traditional film negatives, I store them someplace safe, and I really don’t touch them again. I use the same type of thinking in Lightroom. I don’t really use the Folders panel I use something safer— collections, which is covered next. So, here I’m only going to briefly explain folders, and show one instance where you might use them.

Step One: If you quit Lightroom and on your computer look inside your Pictures folder, you’ll see all the subfolders containing the files of your actual photos. Of course, you can move photos from folder to folder as seen here , add photos, or delete photos, and so on, right? Well, you don’t actually have to leave Lightroom to do stuff like that— you can do those things from within the Folders panel in Lightroom.

You can see all those same folders, and move and delete real files just like you do on your computer. J09 m OliiD SlulE What you’re seeing here are all the folders of photos that you imported into Lightroom by the way, they’re not actually in Lightroom itself— Lightroom is just managing those photos— they’re still sitting in the same folders you imported them into from your memory card.

If the triangle is solid gray, it means there are subfolders inside that folder, and you can just click on that tri- angle to see them. If it’s not solid gray, it just means there are no subfolders inside. Step Four: When you click on a folder, it shows you the photos in that folder that have been imported into Lightroom.

If you click on a thumbnail and drag it into another folder like I’m doing here , it physically moves that photo on your computer from one folder to another, just as if you moved the file on your computer outside of Light- room.

Because you’re actually moving the real file here, you get a “Hey, you’re about to move the real file” warning from Lightroom see here below. The warning sounds scarier than it is — especially the “neither this move nor any change you’ve made prior to this can be undone” part. However, you could just click on the folder you moved it to in this case, the Misc photos folder , find the photo you just moved, and drag it right back to the original folder here, it’s the Tuscany finals folder , so the dialog’s bark is worse than its bite.

So, if it’s the external drive thing, just reconnect your external drive and it will find that folder. If it’s the old “moved them somewhere else” problem, then Right-click on the grayed-out folder and choose Find Missing Folder from the pop-up menu. This brings up a standard Open dialog, so you can show Lightroom where you moved the folder.

When you click on the moved folder, it re-links all the photos inside for you. Step Six: Now, there’s one particular thing I some- times use the Folders panel for, and that’s when I add images to a folder on my computer after I’ve imported.

For exam- ple, let’s say I imported some photos from a trip to Italy and then, later, my brother emails me some shots he took. If I drag his photos into my Tuscany finals folder on my computer, Lightroom doesn’t automatically suck them right in.

In fact, it ignores them unless I go to the Folders panel. Right-click on my Tuscany finals folder, and choose Synchronize Folder. I dragged the nine new photos my brother sent me into my Tuscany finals folder, and you can see it’s ready to import nine new photos. There is a checkbox to have Lightroom bring up the standard Import window before you import the photos so you can add your copyright, and metadata and stuff like that if you like , or you just bring them in by clicking Synchronize and adding that stuff once the images are in Lightroom if you even want to.

Since my brother took these, I won’t be adding my copyright info to them. At least, not while he’s looking. So, that’s pretty much the main instance where I use folders — when I drag new images into an existing folder. Other than that, I just leave that panel closed pretty much all the time, and just work in the Collections panel as you’ll learn about in the next tutorial. TIP: Other Folder Options When you Right-click on a folder, and the pop-up menu appears, you can choose to do other things like rename your folder, create subfolders, etc.

There’s also a Remove option, but in Lightroom, choosing Remove just means “remove this folder of photos from Lightroom. Just so you know. Personally, this is one of the parts I enjoy the most, but I have to admit that I enjoy it more now than I used to, and that’s mostly because I’ve come up with a workflow that’s fast and efficient, and helps me get to the real goal of sorting, which is finding the best shots from your shoot — the “keepers” — the ones you’ll actually show your client, or add to your portfolio, or print.

Here’s how I do it: Step One: When you boil it down, our real goal is to find the best photos from our shoot, but we also want to find the worst photos those photos where the subject is totally out of focus, or you pressed the shutter by accident, or the flash didn’t fire, etc. Lightroom gives you three ways to rate or rank your photos, the most popular being the l-to-S-star rating system.

To mark a photo with a star rating, just click on it and type the number on your keyboard. So, to mark a photo with a 3’Star rating, you’d press the number 3, and you’d see three stars appear under the photo shown here at the top. To change a star rating, type in a new number.

To remove it altogether, press zero. The idea is that once you’ve got your S-star photos marked, you can turn on a filter that displays only your S-star photos.

You can also use that filter to see just your 4’Star, 3’Star, etc. Besides stars, you can also use color labels, so you could mark the worst photos with a Red label, slightly better ones with Yellow, and so on. Or, you could use these in conjunction with the stars to mark your best S-star photo with a Green label as shown here at the bottom. Here’s why: they’re way too slow. Think about it — your S-star photos would be your very best shots, right? The only ones you’ll show anybody. So your 4’Star ones are good, but not good enough.

Your 3’Star ones are just so-so nobody will ever see these. Your 2’Star ones are bad shots — not so bad that you’ll delete them, but bad, and your l-star shots are out-of-focus, blurry, totally messed up shots you’re going to delete. So what are you going to do with your 2- and B-star photos? What about your 4’Star photos? The 5’Stars you keep, the 1 -stars you delete, the rest you pretty much do nothing with, right? So, all we really care about are the best shots and the worst shots, right?

The rest we ignore. Step Three: So instead, I hope you’ll try flags. You mark the best shots as Picks and the really bad ones the ones to be deleted as Rejects. Lightroom will delete the Rejects for you when you’re ready, leaving you with just your best shots and the ones you don’t care about, but you don’t waste time trying to decide if a particular photo you don’t care about is a S-star or a 2’Star. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve seen people sitting there saying out loud, “Now, is this a 2’Star or a 3’Star?

It’s not a S-star; move on! To mark a photo as a Pick, just press the letter P. To mark a photo as a Reject, press the letter X. A little message will appear onscreen to tell you which flag you assigned to the photo, and a tiny flag icon will appear in that photo’s grid cell. A white flag means it’s marked as a Pick. A black flag means it’s a Reject.

I look at the photo, and if I think it’s one of the better shots from the shoot, I press the letter P to flag it as a Pick. If it’s so bad that I want to delete it, I press the letter X instead. If it’s just okay, I don’t do anything; I just move on to the next photo by pressing the Right Arrow key on my keyboard. If I make a mistake and mis’flag a photo for example, if I accidentally mark a photo as a Reject when I didn’t mean to , I just press the letter U to unflag it.

That’s it — that’s the process. You’ll be amazed at how quickly you can move through a few hundred photos and mark the keepers and rejects. But you’ve still got some other things to do once you’ve done this first essential part. Go under the Photo menu and choose Delete Rejected Photos. This displays just the photos you’ve marked as Rejects, and a dialog appears asking if you want to delete them from your disk or just remove them from Lightroom.

I always choose Delete from Disk, because if they were bad enough for me to mark them as Rejects, why would I want to keep them?

– The adobe photoshop lightroom cc book for digital photographers (voices that matter) pdf free

Mind Blown. Book Design. Audio Books. Hollywood Style. Hollywood Fashion. Dashiell Hammett. Raymond Chandler. Photography Lighting. It’s a 2-light beauty setup that Scott refers to as s Hollywood-style lighting. Landscape Photography. National Trails Day. Celebrity Photographers. Outdoor Portraits.

Water Reflections. Book Series. It’s NationalTrailsDay! If you’re out shooting on a trail, make sure you have a polarizer filter for your camera. Not only does it make skies bluer, but it also cuts the reflections in water. Camera Techniques. Print Layout. Print Templates. Photography Tutorials. Super cool, huh?!? Model Photography. Ceiling Lights. Home Decor. Didyouknow he has a whole chapter in his book, Mastering the Model Shoot, on finding and using props?

That’s it. In Windows Vista and Windows 7 bit, by default, only the bit ver- sion of Lightroom is installed. T Organize Multiple Shoots by Date If you’re like me, you probably wind up having multiple shoots on the same memory card for example, I often shoot one day and then shoot a few days later with the same memory card in my camera. If that’s the case, then there’s an advantage to using the Organize By Date feature in the Import window’s Destination panel, and that is it shows each of the shoots on your memory card by their date.

The folders will vary slightly, depending on the Date Format you choose, but you will have a folder for each day you shot. Only the shoots with a checkmark beside them will be import- ed into Lightroom, so ifyou only want to import shots from a particular date, you can turn off the checkbox beside the dates you don’t want imported.

T Multiple Cards fronn One Shoot Ifyou shot two or three memory cards of the same subject, you’ll want to choose Custom Name – Sequence from the File Renaming panel’s Template pop-up menu, which adds a Start Number field, where you can type in which number you want to start with as you import each card rather than always starting with the number 1, like the Custom Name template. For example, ifyou imported photos from your first card, you’d want the second card to start number- ing with , so these shots of the same subject stay sequential.

Once that card is imported let’s say you had shots on that card , then you’d want the start number for the third card’s photos to be By the way, I don’t do the math, I just look at the file number of the last photo I imported, and then add one to it in the Start Number field. Just go under Lightroom’s File menu, choose Upgrade Photoshop Elements Catalog, and then choose your Elements catalog from the dialog’s pop-up menu.

You may need to upgrade your Elements catalog for Light- room, so just click Upgrade if prompted to. Lightroom will close and then reopen with your Elements catalog imported. T Hard Drive Space an Issue? You can’t just back up your photos to a different folder on the same com- puter or the external hard drive you are storing your photos on , because if your computer’s hard drive or your storage hard drive crashes, then you lose both your working copies and the backup copies, too. That’s why you’ve got to make sure the backups go to a com- pletely separate external hard drive.

T Using Two External Hard Drives If you’re already storing your original photos on an external hard drive, it means you now have two external hard drives — one for your working photos, and one for your backups.

A lot of photographers buy two small, stackable external hard drives small hard drives that can stack one on top of the other , and then connect one with a FireWire cable called an IEEE on a PC , and the other with a USB 2 cable hey, I never said this was going to be cheap, but think of it this way: if, one day, you lost all your photos, you’d pay anything to get them back, right?

Instead, just pay a fraction now for a backup hard drive — believe me, you’ll sleep better at night. The cool thing is that this works in the Import window, too. This brings up the Import window with this folder already chosen as the destination for your imported photos. If you don’t turn on the Into Subfolder checkbox and you choose Into One Folder from the Orga- nize pop-up menu, Lightroom tosses the loose photos into your Pictures or My Lightroom Photos folder whichever folder you chose in the To section at the top right of the Import window , and they’re not organized within their own separate folder.

So, if you choose the Into One Folder option, I recommend that you turn on the Into Subfolder checkbox and then name the folder. That way, it imports them into their own separate folder inside your Pictures or My Lightroom Photos folder.

Otherwise, things will get very messy, very quickly. Now, it renames these second copies. T Choosing Keywords Here’s how I choose my keywords: I ask myself, “If months from now, I was trying to find these same photos, what words would I most likely type in the Find field? It works better than you’d think. If you pop in a new card, click on the From button at the top left of the window, and choose it from the pop-up menu that appears.

That may not seem that bad with 14 photos, but what about or photos? So, armed with that info, you can make a decision that fits your workflow. If you’re the type of photographer that likes to zoom in tight on each and every photo to check focus and detail, then it might be worth it for you to wait for the 1 :1 previews to render before working on your images.

If you look at them mostly in full-screen view but don’t zoom in really tight that often , then Standard might work, and if you want thumbnails that more closely represent what your photo will look like when it is rendered at high quality, choose Minimal instead.

T Hiding Folders You Don’t Need If you’re importing photos that are already on your computer, that long list of folders in the Source panel can get really long and distracting, but now you can hide all those extra folders you don’t need to see.

Once you find the folder you’re importing from, just double-click on it, and everything else tucks away leaving just that folder visible. Try this once and you’ll use it all the time.

Over on the far-right side, to the right of Kind, click on the Videos button its icon is a filmstrip and it’s the third icon from the left and now it displays nothing but all the video clips you have in Lightroom pretty handy if you want to make a regular collection ofjust your video clips. But if you’d prefer to control which image appears onscreen, and for how long remember, if you see one onscreen you like, it Nrw Calalpg Under the chapter name, I would put a subhead that explains what the chapter is actually about, because sometimes from the name it wasn’t quite as obvious.

For example, in another book, I had a chapter called “Super Size Me” from the movie of the same name , about how to resize your images. But for the previous edition of this book, I dispensed with those titles and just gave each chapter a regular boring ol’ name, and now that I’m writing the Lightroom 3 version, I’m kinda wishing I hadn’t done away with it even though I guess this way does make it easier. See, I was thinking that people who buy books on Lightroom are photographers, and that means they’re creative people, which to me means that if I named the chapters after things that in themselves are creative like songs, TV shows, and movies.

Well, as luck would have it, I just checked on the iTunes Store and there actually is a song named “Library” by a band called Final Fantasy from their album Has a Good Home. Anyway, I listened to the song and I have to say, it was mind numbingly bad — bad on a level I haven’t heard in years, yet the album has 12 five-star reviews, so either these people are criminally insane, or they were basing their review on their general love of one of Final Fantasy’s other songs, titled “He Poos Clouds.

My year-old son would still be giggling. When you import photos, you have to choose a folder in which to store them on your hard drive. This is the only time I really do anything with folders because I think of them as where my negatives are stored, and like with traditional film negatives, I store them someplace safe, and I really don’t touch them again.

I use the same type of thinking in Lightroom. I don’t really use the Folders panel I use something safer— collections, which is covered next. So, here I’m only going to briefly explain folders, and show one instance where you might use them.

Step One: If you quit Lightroom and on your computer look inside your Pictures folder, you’ll see all the subfolders containing the files of your actual photos. Of course, you can move photos from folder to folder as seen here , add photos, or delete photos, and so on, right? Well, you don’t actually have to leave Lightroom to do stuff like that— you can do those things from within the Folders panel in Lightroom.

You can see all those same folders, and move and delete real files just like you do on your computer. J09 m OliiD SlulE What you’re seeing here are all the folders of photos that you imported into Lightroom by the way, they’re not actually in Lightroom itself— Lightroom is just managing those photos— they’re still sitting in the same folders you imported them into from your memory card.

If the triangle is solid gray, it means there are subfolders inside that folder, and you can just click on that tri- angle to see them. If it’s not solid gray, it just means there are no subfolders inside.

Step Four: When you click on a folder, it shows you the photos in that folder that have been imported into Lightroom. If you click on a thumbnail and drag it into another folder like I’m doing here , it physically moves that photo on your computer from one folder to another, just as if you moved the file on your computer outside of Light- room.

Because you’re actually moving the real file here, you get a “Hey, you’re about to move the real file” warning from Lightroom see here below.

The warning sounds scarier than it is — especially the “neither this move nor any change you’ve made prior to this can be undone” part. However, you could just click on the folder you moved it to in this case, the Misc photos folder , find the photo you just moved, and drag it right back to the original folder here, it’s the Tuscany finals folder , so the dialog’s bark is worse than its bite. So, if it’s the external drive thing, just reconnect your external drive and it will find that folder.

If it’s the old “moved them somewhere else” problem, then Right-click on the grayed-out folder and choose Find Missing Folder from the pop-up menu. This brings up a standard Open dialog, so you can show Lightroom where you moved the folder. When you click on the moved folder, it re-links all the photos inside for you. Step Six: Now, there’s one particular thing I some- times use the Folders panel for, and that’s when I add images to a folder on my computer after I’ve imported.

For exam- ple, let’s say I imported some photos from a trip to Italy and then, later, my brother emails me some shots he took. If I drag his photos into my Tuscany finals folder on my computer, Lightroom doesn’t automatically suck them right in. In fact, it ignores them unless I go to the Folders panel.

Right-click on my Tuscany finals folder, and choose Synchronize Folder. I dragged the nine new photos my brother sent me into my Tuscany finals folder, and you can see it’s ready to import nine new photos. There is a checkbox to have Lightroom bring up the standard Import window before you import the photos so you can add your copyright, and metadata and stuff like that if you like , or you just bring them in by clicking Synchronize and adding that stuff once the images are in Lightroom if you even want to.

Since my brother took these, I won’t be adding my copyright info to them. At least, not while he’s looking. So, that’s pretty much the main instance where I use folders — when I drag new images into an existing folder.

Other than that, I just leave that panel closed pretty much all the time, and just work in the Collections panel as you’ll learn about in the next tutorial. TIP: Other Folder Options When you Right-click on a folder, and the pop-up menu appears, you can choose to do other things like rename your folder, create subfolders, etc. There’s also a Remove option, but in Lightroom, choosing Remove just means “remove this folder of photos from Lightroom.

Just so you know. Personally, this is one of the parts I enjoy the most, but I have to admit that I enjoy it more now than I used to, and that’s mostly because I’ve come up with a workflow that’s fast and efficient, and helps me get to the real goal of sorting, which is finding the best shots from your shoot — the “keepers” — the ones you’ll actually show your client, or add to your portfolio, or print. Here’s how I do it: Step One: When you boil it down, our real goal is to find the best photos from our shoot, but we also want to find the worst photos those photos where the subject is totally out of focus, or you pressed the shutter by accident, or the flash didn’t fire, etc.

Lightroom gives you three ways to rate or rank your photos, the most popular being the l-to-S-star rating system. To mark a photo with a star rating, just click on it and type the number on your keyboard. So, to mark a photo with a 3’Star rating, you’d press the number 3, and you’d see three stars appear under the photo shown here at the top. To change a star rating, type in a new number. To remove it altogether, press zero. The idea is that once you’ve got your S-star photos marked, you can turn on a filter that displays only your S-star photos.

You can also use that filter to see just your 4’Star, 3’Star, etc. Besides stars, you can also use color labels, so you could mark the worst photos with a Red label, slightly better ones with Yellow, and so on. Or, you could use these in conjunction with the stars to mark your best S-star photo with a Green label as shown here at the bottom. Here’s why: they’re way too slow. Think about it — your S-star photos would be your very best shots, right? The only ones you’ll show anybody. So your 4’Star ones are good, but not good enough.

Your 3’Star ones are just so-so nobody will ever see these. Your 2’Star ones are bad shots — not so bad that you’ll delete them, but bad, and your l-star shots are out-of-focus, blurry, totally messed up shots you’re going to delete. So what are you going to do with your 2- and B-star photos? What about your 4’Star photos? The 5’Stars you keep, the 1 -stars you delete, the rest you pretty much do nothing with, right?

So, all we really care about are the best shots and the worst shots, right? The rest we ignore. Step Three: So instead, I hope you’ll try flags. You mark the best shots as Picks and the really bad ones the ones to be deleted as Rejects. Lightroom will delete the Rejects for you when you’re ready, leaving you with just your best shots and the ones you don’t care about, but you don’t waste time trying to decide if a particular photo you don’t care about is a S-star or a 2’Star.

I can’t tell you how many times I’ve seen people sitting there saying out loud, “Now, is this a 2’Star or a 3’Star? It’s not a S-star; move on! To mark a photo as a Pick, just press the letter P. To mark a photo as a Reject, press the letter X. A little message will appear onscreen to tell you which flag you assigned to the photo, and a tiny flag icon will appear in that photo’s grid cell. A white flag means it’s marked as a Pick. A black flag means it’s a Reject.

I look at the photo, and if I think it’s one of the better shots from the shoot, I press the letter P to flag it as a Pick. If it’s so bad that I want to delete it, I press the letter X instead. If it’s just okay, I don’t do anything; I just move on to the next photo by pressing the Right Arrow key on my keyboard. If I make a mistake and mis’flag a photo for example, if I accidentally mark a photo as a Reject when I didn’t mean to , I just press the letter U to unflag it.

That’s it — that’s the process. You’ll be amazed at how quickly you can move through a few hundred photos and mark the keepers and rejects. But you’ve still got some other things to do once you’ve done this first essential part. Go under the Photo menu and choose Delete Rejected Photos. This displays just the photos you’ve marked as Rejects, and a dialog appears asking if you want to delete them from your disk or just remove them from Lightroom. I always choose Delete from Disk, because if they were bad enough for me to mark them as Rejects, why would I want to keep them?

What could I possibly use them for? So, if you feel the same way, click the Delete from Disk button and it returns you to the Grid view, and the rest of your photos. Once they’re actually in a collection, doing this just removes the photos from the collection, and not from your hard disk.

Delete movci? Click on the white Picks flag shown circled here , and now just your Picks are visible. There’s a Library filter there too, but just for attributes like flags, star ratings, and color labels.

Step Seven: What I do next is put these Picks into a collection. Collections are the key orga- nizational tool we use, not just here in the sorting phase, but throughout the Lightroom workflow.

You can think of a collection as an album of your favorite photos from a shoot, and once you put your Picks into their own collection, you’ll always be just one click away from your keepers from the shoot.

A pop-up menu will appear, and from this menu, choose Create Collection as shown here. So for now, leave the Set pop-up menu at None, but don’t worry, sets are coming soon enough. In the Collection Options section, you want your collection to include the photos you selected your Picks in the previous step, and because you made a selection first, this checkbox is already turned on for you.

Just in case you were wondering, collections don’t affect the actual photos on your computer — these are just “work- ing collections” for our convenience, so we can delete photos from our collec- tions and it doesn’t affect the real photos they’re still in their folder on your com- puter, except for the Rejects we deleted earlier, before we created this collection. Note: If you’re an Apple iPod or iPhone owner, then you’re familiar with Apple’s iTunes software and how you create playlists of your favorite songs like big hair bands of the ’80s, or party music, or classic rock, etc.

When you remove a song from a play list, it doesn’t delete it from your hard disk or your main iTunes Music Library , it just removes it from that particular playlist, right?

Well, you can think of collections in Lightroom as kind of the same thing, but instead of songs, they’re photos. Out of the bridal shots that were taken that day, only 58 of them were flagged as good shots, and that’s how many wound up in our Picks collec- tion. But here are some questions: Are you going to print all 58 of these keep- ers? Are all 58 going in your portfolio, or are you going to email 58 shots of this one bridal shoot to the bride?

Probably not, right? So, within our collection of keepers, there are some shots that really stand out — the best of the best, the ones you actually will want to email to the client, or print, or add to your portfolio. So, we need to refine our sorting process a little more to find our best shots from this group of keepers — our “Selects. You already know the first method: double-click on a photo to jump to Loupe view, move through the photos using the Arrow keys on your keyboard, and when you see one that you know is one of the best of the bunch, you press the letter P to flag it as a Pick when you created this collection, Lightroom removed the old Picks flags for you.

Bonus Chapter 2 — Advanced Bridge Techniques. Bonus Chapter 3 — Color Correction Secrets. Bonus Chapter 3 — Images. Start your free trial. How to use Lightroom along with Photoshop, and how to make the two work together absolutely seamlessly. You can also download most of the same images used in the book to follow right along with. Great effort is made to simplify complex operations, diagrams are reasonably good, the writing is engaging.

There are a few glaring deficiencies in this book. I wanted to enlarge a photo to work on blemishes and such. How does one do that? Good luck finding it.

It certainly doesn’t jump out in the index. After an hour of infuriating fumbling around, I concluded that I need to go to the library view to enlarge, then back to the develop section to effect the changes. That’s crazy. Is there a better way to do this? Impossible to know from this book. I wanted to jump to a step in the history to remove that step.

It would have been nice to know that if I hit the delete key, the entire photo gets deleted, not the step I wanted to be removed. How does one reverse the delete or even copy that photo back into the collection in which I was working? I stumbled around for at least another hour trying to figure out how to make that simple move, and the book was no help.

This is an author with a great reputation and a highly respected book. So then why isn’t there a page that lists all the shortcuts? To me that’s an incredibly basic list absent from the book. So the book is helpful but there are some substantial and significant deficiencies. I’ve read his previous Lightroom books and unfortunately, besides changing his work flow, there is not enough “new” info to make this worth buying.

But for me what was really disappointing was the fact that there are glaring typos – doesn’t anyone proof anymore? I wouldn’t even call them misspellings – just typos but come on! Maybe he’s just dashing them off so quickly that they are not vetted but I found this one had more “fluff” than his other books and too much time spent on modules that most users don’t bother with. Lightroom is a complex application with loads of features, many of which are hidden or aren’t intuitive.

This book does a really nice job of going through the core application, digging into those magical features, and explaining many use cases and workarounds that may not be obvious to a beginning user. Great job, in the casual and humorous style I’ve come to enjoy from the author. My one critique is the section on Lightroom CC nee Mobile. Both the desktop and mobile versions are still evolving rapidly. I read Kelby’s earlier edition several years ago and found it very good and helpful.

This edition on Lightroom CC is introducing me to many of those changes I knew nothing about.

The adobe photoshop lightroom cc book for digital photographers (voices that matter) pdf free. Follow the Author

Each year, he trains thousands of Lightroom users at his live seminars and through his blog at LightroomKillerTips. He tells you flat-out which techniques work best, which ones to avoid, and why. This is the first and only book to bring the whole process together in such a clear, concise, and visual way. There is no faster, more straight-to-the-point, or more fun way to learn Lightroom than with this ground- and record-breaking book.

Chapter 4 — Lens: Correcting Lens Problems. Chapter 11 — Sharp Tale: Sharpening Techniques. Forgot password? Remember me? Don’t get me wrong, this is powerful software that is basically the industry standard, but making things easy for users is not their strong suit. Bottom line: if you want a straight forward practical guide to how to use this software without getting lost in theory, this is the book to get.

One person found this helpful. Scott Kelby’s style of writing his instruction books never fails. He is detailed, easy to follow and always entertaining. This is a must have book if you have questions about Lightroom anything from how to get started to wanting to know more advanced features. I find all his books, and this is one is no exception, to be very friendly and you will be on your way to enjoying and learning Lightroom. Lightroom is not an easy program to learn on your own.

Thank God for Scott Kelby who makes it a pleasure to learn it. Scott Kelby writes the best photoshop books. See all reviews. Top reviews from other countries. This is an excellent book on light room by an excellent author. I have a number of his books and they are really very good. You can start from beginning and work your way through or if you know a little bit about Lightroom already you can dip into the various sections. There are lots of practical tips and suggestions.

If you have Lightroom I would say this is the one and only book you need to get to get you up and running. So much content! But written in a way to take you from complete beginner to expert in no time.

I started working through the book methodically and really appreciated getting to know the basics of file management and editing. Now I use more as a reference tool. A fully comprehensive guide to Lightroom Classic. If it’s not in this book you don’t need to know. This is the ideal compliment, to Lightroom classic. It is very well structured, informative and takes you from beginner to comptent.

A must have, if you are starting your journey with Lightroom. Highly recommended. Fabulous clear step by step. Only downside found the bit on masking and dodging and burning very confusing.

Your recently viewed items and featured recommendations. Back to top. Get to Know Us. Make Money with Us. Amazon Payment Products. Let Us Help You. Amazon Music Stream millions of songs. Well, here’s how to do just that. Keep in mind that you can create more than one template, so if you create one with your full contact info includ- ing your phone number , you might want to create one with just basic info, or one for when you’re exporting images to be sent to a stock photo agency, etc.

Once the Import window appears, go to the Apply During Import panel, and from the Metadata pop-up menu, choose New as shown here. First, click the Check None button at the bottom of the dialog, as shown here so no blank fields will appear when you view this metadata in Lightroom— only fields with data will be displayed.

E cottkelby. Next, go to the IPTC Creator section and enter your contact info after all, if someone goes by your website and down- loads some of your images, you might want them to be able to contact you to arrange to license your photo. Now, you may feel that the Copyright Info URL Web address that you added in the previous section is enough contact info, and if that’s the case, you can skip filling out the IPTC Creator info after all, this metadata preset is to help make potential clients aware that your work is copyrighted, and tell them how to get in contact with you.

Once all the meta- data info you want embedded in your photos is complete, go up to the top of the dialog, give your preset a name — I chose “Scott’s Copyright Full ” — and then click the Create button, as shown. Step Four: As easy as it is to create a metadata template, deleting one isn’t much harder.

From the Preset pop-up menu at the top, choose the preset you want to delete. Once all the metadata appears in the dialog, go back to that Preset pop-up menu, and now choose Delete Preset [Name of Preset]. A warning dialog will pop up, asking if you’re sure you want to delete this preset.

Click Delete, and it is gone forever. Step One: There are five different modules in Light- room, and each does a different thing. When your imported photos appear in Lightroom, they always appear in the center of the Library module, which is where we do all our sorting, searching, keywording, etc.

The Develop module is where you go to do your photo editing like changing the exposure, white balance, tweaking colors, etc. You move from module to module by clicking on the module’s name up in the taskbar across the top, or you can use the shortcuts Command-Option-I for Library, Command-Option-Z for Develop, and so on on a PC, it would be Ctrl-Alt-l, Ctrl’Alt’2, and so on.

I S:i aiMk. Step Two: There are five areas in the Lightroom interface overall: that taskbar on the top, the left and right side Panels areas, and a Filmstrip across the bottom your photos always appear in the center Preview area. You can hide any panel which makes the Preview area, where your photos are dis- played, larger by clicking on the little gray triangle in the center edge of the panel. For example, go ahead and click on the little gray triangle at the top center of the interface, and you’ll see it hides the taskbar.

Click it again; it comes back. The idea behind it sounds great: if you’ve hidden a panel, and need it visible again to make an adjustment, you move your cursor over where the panel used to be, and it pops out.

When you’re done, you move your cursor away, and it automatically tucks back out of sight. Sounds great, right? The problem is one pops out anytime you move your cursor to the far right, left, top, or bottom of your screen. It really drives them nuts, and I’ve had people literally beg me to show them how to turn it off.

A pop-up menu will appear shown here where you’ll choose Manual, which turns the feature off. This works on a per-panel basis, so you’ll have to do it to each of the four panels.

You can hide both side Panels areas by pressing the Tab key, but the one short- cut I probably use the most is Shift-Tab, because it hides everything — all the pan- els — and leaves just your photos visible as shown here.

Also, here’s an insight into what is found where: the left side Panels area is used primarily for applying presets and templates, and showing you a preview of the photo, preset, or template you’re working with. Everything else all adjust- ments is found on the right side.

Okay, on the next page: tips on viewing. Learning these viewing options now will really help you make the most informed decisions possible about which photos make it and which ones don’t. Step One: When your imported photos appear in Lightroom, they are displayed as small thumbnails in the center Preview area as seen here.

You can change the size of these thumbnails using the Thumbnails slider that appears in the toolbar the dark gray horizontal bar that appears directly below the center Preview area. Drag it to the right, and they get bigger; drag to the left, and they get smaller the slider is circled here. Step Two: To see any thumbnail at a larger size, just double-click on it, press the letter E on your keyboard, or press the Spacebar. This larger size is called Loupe view as if you were looking at the photo through a loupe , and by default it zooms in so you can see your entire photo in the Preview area.

This is called a Fit in Window view, but if you’d pre- fer that it zoomed in tighter, you can go up to the Navigator panel at the top left, and click on a different size, like Fill, and now when you double-click, it will zoom in until your photo literally fills the Preview area. If you click it once on your photo, it jumps to a view of the area where you clicked. To zoom back out, just click it again.

To return to the thumbnail view called Grid view , just press the letter C on your keyboard. This is one of the most important keyboard shortcuts to memorize so far, the ones you really need to know are: Shift’Tab to hide all the panels, and now G to return to Grid view. This is a particularly handy shortcut, because when you’re in any other module, pressing G brings you right back here to the Library module and your thumbnail grid. Step Four: The area that surrounds your thumbnail is called a cell, and each cell displays infor- mation about the photo from the filename, to the file format, dimensions, etc.

But in the meantime, here’s another keyboard shortcut you’ll want to know about: press the letter J. Each time you press it, it toggles you through the three different cell views, each of which displays different groups of info — an expanded cell with lots of info, a compact cell with just a little info, and the last one hides all that distracting stuff altogether great for when you’re showing thumbnails to clients.

Also, you can hide or show the dark gray toolbar below the center Preview area by pressing T. If you press-and-hold T, it only hides it for as long as you have the T key held down. That’s why I love the Shift-Tab shortcut that hides all the panels. Here’s how: Step One: Press the letter L on your keyboard to enter Lights Dim mode, in which every- thing but your photo s in the center Preview area is dimmed kind of like you turned down a lighting dimmer.

In this mode, a thin white border also appears around your thumbnails, so they really stand out. Perhaps the coolest thing about this dimmed mode is the fact that the Panels areas, taskbar, and Film- strip all still work— you can still make adjustments, change photos, etc. Step Two: The next viewing mode is Lights Out you get Lights Out by pressing L a second time , and this one really makes your photos the star of the show because everything else is totally blacked out, so there’s nothing and I mean nothing but your photos onscreen to return to regular Lights On mode, just press L again.

To get your image as big onscreen as possible, right before you enter Lights Out mode, press Shift-Tab to hide all the panels on the sides, top, and bottom— that way you get the big image view you see here. With- out the Shift-Tab, you’d have the smaller size image you see in Step One, with lots and lots of empty black space around it.

The first time you press F, it makes the Lightroom window fill your screen and hides the window’s title bar directly above the taskbar in Lightroom’s interface. The second F actually hides the menu bar at the very top of your screen, so if you combine this with ShiftTab to hide your panels, taskbar, and Filmstrip, and T to hide the toolbar, you’ll see just your photos on a solid top-to-bottom gray background.

I know you might be thinking, “I don’t know if I find those two thin bars at the top really that distracting. To return to regular view, use the same shortcut. The image on top is the gray layout you just learned, and on bottom, I pressed L twice to enter Lights Out mode.

T Lightroonn Won’t Let You Import Duplicates If you go to import some photos, and some or all of them are already found in your Lightroom catalog in other words, these are duplicates , and the Don’t Import Suspected Duplicates checkbox is turned on, any images already in Light- room will be grayed out in the Import window.

If all the images are duplicate, the Import button will also be grayed out, so you can’t import them. T Using Separate Catalogs to Make Lightroom Faster Although I keep one single catalog for all the photos on my laptop, and just three catalogs for my entire collection in the studio, I have a friend who’s a full- time wedding photographer who uses a different Lightroom catalog strategy that freaked me out when I first heard it.

He cre- ates a separate Lightroom catalog go under the File menu and choose New Catalog for every single wedding. At each wedding, he shoots more than a thousand shots, and often he has one to two other photographers shooting with him.

His way, Lightroom really screams, because each catalog has only a thou- sand or so photos where for many folks, it’s not unusual to have 30, or 40, images, which tends to slow Lightroom down a bit. Hey, if you’re a high-volume shooter, it’s worth considering.

T Why You Might Want to Wait to Rename Your Files As you saw in this chapter, you can rename your files as you import them into Lightroom and I definitely think you should give your files descriptive names , but you might want to wait until after you’ve sorted your photos and deleted any out-of-focus shots, or shots where the flash didn’t fire, etc. Well, if you delete some of these files, then your numbering will be out of sequence there will be numbers missing.

This doesn’t bother me at all, but I’ve learned that it drives some people crazy you know who you are , so it’s definitely something to consider. However, I think it’s faster and more convenient to go down to the Filmstrip, and on the left side, where you see the current collection’s name, click-and-hold, and from the pop-up menu that appears, choose Previous Import.

Applimionflnlel Si«. That’s it. In Windows Vista and Windows 7 bit, by default, only the bit ver- sion of Lightroom is installed.

T Organize Multiple Shoots by Date If you’re like me, you probably wind up having multiple shoots on the same memory card for example, I often shoot one day and then shoot a few days later with the same memory card in my camera.

If that’s the case, then there’s an advantage to using the Organize By Date feature in the Import window’s Destination panel, and that is it shows each of the shoots on your memory card by their date.

The folders will vary slightly, depending on the Date Format you choose, but you will have a folder for each day you shot. Only the shoots with a checkmark beside them will be import- ed into Lightroom, so ifyou only want to import shots from a particular date, you can turn off the checkbox beside the dates you don’t want imported.

T Multiple Cards fronn One Shoot Ifyou shot two or three memory cards of the same subject, you’ll want to choose Custom Name – Sequence from the File Renaming panel’s Template pop-up menu, which adds a Start Number field, where you can type in which number you want to start with as you import each card rather than always starting with the number 1, like the Custom Name template.

For example, ifyou imported photos from your first card, you’d want the second card to start number- ing with , so these shots of the same subject stay sequential. Once that card is imported let’s say you had shots on that card , then you’d want the start number for the third card’s photos to be By the way, I don’t do the math, I just look at the file number of the last photo I imported, and then add one to it in the Start Number field.

Just go under Lightroom’s File menu, choose Upgrade Photoshop Elements Catalog, and then choose your Elements catalog from the dialog’s pop-up menu. You may need to upgrade your Elements catalog for Light- room, so just click Upgrade if prompted to. Lightroom will close and then reopen with your Elements catalog imported. T Hard Drive Space an Issue? You can’t just back up your photos to a different folder on the same com- puter or the external hard drive you are storing your photos on , because if your computer’s hard drive or your storage hard drive crashes, then you lose both your working copies and the backup copies, too.

That’s why you’ve got to make sure the backups go to a com- pletely separate external hard drive. T Using Two External Hard Drives If you’re already storing your original photos on an external hard drive, it means you now have two external hard drives — one for your working photos, and one for your backups.

A lot of photographers buy two small, stackable external hard drives small hard drives that can stack one on top of the other , and then connect one with a FireWire cable called an IEEE on a PC , and the other with a USB 2 cable hey, I never said this was going to be cheap, but think of it this way: if, one day, you lost all your photos, you’d pay anything to get them back, right?

Instead, just pay a fraction now for a backup hard drive — believe me, you’ll sleep better at night. The cool thing is that this works in the Import window, too. This brings up the Import window with this folder already chosen as the destination for your imported photos. If you don’t turn on the Into Subfolder checkbox and you choose Into One Folder from the Orga- nize pop-up menu, Lightroom tosses the loose photos into your Pictures or My Lightroom Photos folder whichever folder you chose in the To section at the top right of the Import window , and they’re not organized within their own separate folder.

So, if you choose the Into One Folder option, I recommend that you turn on the Into Subfolder checkbox and then name the folder. That way, it imports them into their own separate folder inside your Pictures or My Lightroom Photos folder. Otherwise, things will get very messy, very quickly. Now, it renames these second copies. T Choosing Keywords Here’s how I choose my keywords: I ask myself, “If months from now, I was trying to find these same photos, what words would I most likely type in the Find field?

It works better than you’d think. If you pop in a new card, click on the From button at the top left of the window, and choose it from the pop-up menu that appears. That may not seem that bad with 14 photos, but what about or photos? So, armed with that info, you can make a decision that fits your workflow. If you’re the type of photographer that likes to zoom in tight on each and every photo to check focus and detail, then it might be worth it for you to wait for the 1 :1 previews to render before working on your images.

If you look at them mostly in full-screen view but don’t zoom in really tight that often , then Standard might work, and if you want thumbnails that more closely represent what your photo will look like when it is rendered at high quality, choose Minimal instead.

T Hiding Folders You Don’t Need If you’re importing photos that are already on your computer, that long list of folders in the Source panel can get really long and distracting, but now you can hide all those extra folders you don’t need to see. Once you find the folder you’re importing from, just double-click on it, and everything else tucks away leaving just that folder visible.

Try this once and you’ll use it all the time. Over on the far-right side, to the right of Kind, click on the Videos button its icon is a filmstrip and it’s the third icon from the left and now it displays nothing but all the video clips you have in Lightroom pretty handy if you want to make a regular collection ofjust your video clips.

But if you’d prefer to control which image appears onscreen, and for how long remember, if you see one onscreen you like, it Nrw Calalpg Under the chapter name, I would put a subhead that explains what the chapter is actually about, because sometimes from the name it wasn’t quite as obvious.

For example, in another book, I had a chapter called “Super Size Me” from the movie of the same name , about how to resize your images. But for the previous edition of this book, I dispensed with those titles and just gave each chapter a regular boring ol’ name, and now that I’m writing the Lightroom 3 version, I’m kinda wishing I hadn’t done away with it even though I guess this way does make it easier.

See, I was thinking that people who buy books on Lightroom are photographers, and that means they’re creative people, which to me means that if I named the chapters after things that in themselves are creative like songs, TV shows, and movies. Well, as luck would have it, I just checked on the iTunes Store and there actually is a song named “Library” by a band called Final Fantasy from their album Has a Good Home.

Anyway, I listened to the song and I have to say, it was mind numbingly bad — bad on a level I haven’t heard in years, yet the album has 12 five-star reviews, so either these people are criminally insane, or they were basing their review on their general love of one of Final Fantasy’s other songs, titled “He Poos Clouds.

My year-old son would still be giggling. When you import photos, you have to choose a folder in which to store them on your hard drive. This is the only time I really do anything with folders because I think of them as where my negatives are stored, and like with traditional film negatives, I store them someplace safe, and I really don’t touch them again. I use the same type of thinking in Lightroom. I don’t really use the Folders panel I use something safer— collections, which is covered next.

So, here I’m only going to briefly explain folders, and show one instance where you might use them. Step One: If you quit Lightroom and on your computer look inside your Pictures folder, you’ll see all the subfolders containing the files of your actual photos. Of course, you can move photos from folder to folder as seen here , add photos, or delete photos, and so on, right? Well, you don’t actually have to leave Lightroom to do stuff like that— you can do those things from within the Folders panel in Lightroom.

You can see all those same folders, and move and delete real files just like you do on your computer. J09 m OliiD SlulE What you’re seeing here are all the folders of photos that you imported into Lightroom by the way, they’re not actually in Lightroom itself— Lightroom is just managing those photos— they’re still sitting in the same folders you imported them into from your memory card. If the triangle is solid gray, it means there are subfolders inside that folder, and you can just click on that tri- angle to see them.

If it’s not solid gray, it just means there are no subfolders inside. Step Four: When you click on a folder, it shows you the photos in that folder that have been imported into Lightroom. If you click on a thumbnail and drag it into another folder like I’m doing here , it physically moves that photo on your computer from one folder to another, just as if you moved the file on your computer outside of Light- room.

Because you’re actually moving the real file here, you get a “Hey, you’re about to move the real file” warning from Lightroom see here below. The warning sounds scarier than it is — especially the “neither this move nor any change you’ve made prior to this can be undone” part.

However, you could just click on the folder you moved it to in this case, the Misc photos folder , find the photo you just moved, and drag it right back to the original folder here, it’s the Tuscany finals folder , so the dialog’s bark is worse than its bite. So, if it’s the external drive thing, just reconnect your external drive and it will find that folder. If it’s the old “moved them somewhere else” problem, then Right-click on the grayed-out folder and choose Find Missing Folder from the pop-up menu.

This brings up a standard Open dialog, so you can show Lightroom where you moved the folder. When you click on the moved folder, it re-links all the photos inside for you. Step Six: Now, there’s one particular thing I some- times use the Folders panel for, and that’s when I add images to a folder on my computer after I’ve imported. For exam- ple, let’s say I imported some photos from a trip to Italy and then, later, my brother emails me some shots he took.

If I drag his photos into my Tuscany finals folder on my computer, Lightroom doesn’t automatically suck them right in. In fact, it ignores them unless I go to the Folders panel. Right-click on my Tuscany finals folder, and choose Synchronize Folder.

I dragged the nine new photos my brother sent me into my Tuscany finals folder, and you can see it’s ready to import nine new photos. There is a checkbox to have Lightroom bring up the standard Import window before you import the photos so you can add your copyright, and metadata and stuff like that if you like , or you just bring them in by clicking Synchronize and adding that stuff once the images are in Lightroom if you even want to.

Since my brother took these, I won’t be adding my copyright info to them. At least, not while he’s looking. So, that’s pretty much the main instance where I use folders — when I drag new images into an existing folder.

Other than that, I just leave that panel closed pretty much all the time, and just work in the Collections panel as you’ll learn about in the next tutorial. TIP: Other Folder Options When you Right-click on a folder, and the pop-up menu appears, you can choose to do other things like rename your folder, create subfolders, etc.

There’s also a Remove option, but in Lightroom, choosing Remove just means “remove this folder of photos from Lightroom. Just so you know. Personally, this is one of the parts I enjoy the most, but I have to admit that I enjoy it more now than I used to, and that’s mostly because I’ve come up with a workflow that’s fast and efficient, and helps me get to the real goal of sorting, which is finding the best shots from your shoot — the “keepers” — the ones you’ll actually show your client, or add to your portfolio, or print.

Here’s how I do it: Step One: When you boil it down, our real goal is to find the best photos from our shoot, but we also want to find the worst photos those photos where the subject is totally out of focus, or you pressed the shutter by accident, or the flash didn’t fire, etc. Lightroom gives you three ways to rate or rank your photos, the most popular being the l-to-S-star rating system. To mark a photo with a star rating, just click on it and type the number on your keyboard.

So, to mark a photo with a 3’Star rating, you’d press the number 3, and you’d see three stars appear under the photo shown here at the top. To change a star rating, type in a new number. To remove it altogether, press zero. The idea is that once you’ve got your S-star photos marked, you can turn on a filter that displays only your S-star photos. You can also use that filter to see just your 4’Star, 3’Star, etc. Besides stars, you can also use color labels, so you could mark the worst photos with a Red label, slightly better ones with Yellow, and so on.

Or, you could use these in conjunction with the stars to mark your best S-star photo with a Green label as shown here at the bottom. Here’s why: they’re way too slow. Think about it — your S-star photos would be your very best shots, right? The only ones you’ll show anybody. So your 4’Star ones are good, but not good enough.

Your 3’Star ones are just so-so nobody will ever see these. Your 2’Star ones are bad shots — not so bad that you’ll delete them, but bad, and your l-star shots are out-of-focus, blurry, totally messed up shots you’re going to delete.

So what are you going to do with your 2- and B-star photos? What about your 4’Star photos? The 5’Stars you keep, the 1 -stars you delete, the rest you pretty much do nothing with, right? So, all we really care about are the best shots and the worst shots, right? The rest we ignore.

Step Three: So instead, I hope you’ll try flags. You mark the best shots as Picks and the really bad ones the ones to be deleted as Rejects.

Lightroom will delete the Rejects for you when you’re ready, leaving you with just your best shots and the ones you don’t care about, but you don’t waste time trying to decide if a particular photo you don’t care about is a S-star or a 2’Star. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve seen people sitting there saying out loud, “Now, is this a 2’Star or a 3’Star?

It’s not a S-star; move on! To mark a photo as a Pick, just press the letter P.